For decades, chemical hair relaxers have been a staple in beauty routines for many Nigerian women. Marketed as a convenient way to achieve straight, manageable hair, these products are widely used despite mounting scientific evidence linking them to severe health risks. Juliet Jacob reports that recent studies, including research from the US National Institutes of Health (NIH) and Boston University’s Black Women’s Health Study, have highlighted the potential dangers of chemical relaxers, especially their association with uterine cancer and reproductive health issues.
This report therefor examines the growing body of evidence, the persistence of relaxer sales in Nigeria despite health warnings, personal stories of affected women, and the cultural and social factors that drive their continued use. It also explores corporate responsibility, regulatory measures, and the increasing shift towards natural hair among Nigerian women.
The Science Behind the Risk
A study published in the Journal of the National Cancer Institute on October 17, 2022, revealed that women who frequently use chemical hair straightening products have a higher risk of developing uterine cancer. The study tracked 33,497 women aged 35-74 over nearly 11 years, diagnosing 378 cases of uterine cancer. Women who used relaxers more than four times a year had a significantly higher risk, increasing from 1.64% for non-users to 4.05%.
Additional research from the National Center for Biotechnology Information (NCBI) confirms that nearly two out of every three Black women use chemical relaxers. These products contain harmful chemicals like sodium hydroxide (found in lye-based relaxers), calcium hydroxide, and guanidine carbonate (in no-lye relaxers). These substances alter hair structure by breaking down protein bonds, but they also introduce endocrine disruptors that can impact reproductive health.
The Nigerian Market and Relaxer Sales
Despite emerging health concerns, the hair relaxer industry remains lucrative in Nigeria. Data from Euromonitor International ranks Nigeria as the fifth highest consumer of hair relaxers in Africa, with 3.4% of women using them. Brands such as Dark & Lovely, ORS, and TCB Naturals dominate the market, with aggressive marketing campaigns emphasizing beauty and manageability over health concerns.
Africa’s cosmetics industry continues to grow, driven by an expanding middle class and a youthful population. From 2017 to 2022, countries like Tunisia, Kenya, and Cameroon led relaxer sales growth, with Nigeria following closely behind. The global hair relaxer market is expected to reach $854 million annually by 2028, highlighting the commercial stakes involved.
Personal Stories and Growing Lawsuits
In the U.S., lawsuits have been filed against major relaxer manufacturers, with women alleging that these products contributed to their cancer diagnoses. Fatima Hassan, from Lagos, Nigeria, is among thousands of women filing lawsuits against major haircare companies. Her daughter, Zainab Hassan passed away from uterine cancer at the age of 48 in September 2022. As a child, Zainab wore her chemically relaxed hair in neat braids that hung past her shoulders. Fatima began straightening her daughters’ hair every six to eight weeks when they were about five years old. It was a common practice among Nigerian mothers who sought to make hair care more manageable amid their busy schedules.
Zainab’s first relaxer was SoftSheen, a brand that was once a staple in Nigerian salons but has faded from the market. In the 1990s, the product’s box featured the smiling image of a young Black girl with sleek, straight hair, reinforcing the beauty standard that many Nigerian women and girls aspired to.
Zainab continued using relaxers well into adulthood, stopping only about eight years ago when she and her sister, Halima Hassan decided to embrace their natural hair.
Now, Fatima, 72, and Halima, 50, believe the chemicals in these relaxers were responsible for Zainab’s illness. Both women also attribute their own reproductive health issues to years of exposure—Fatima had a hysterectomy due to fibroids, while Halima underwent the same procedure because of severe endometriosis.
“All these years, we never questioned it. It was just what we did. But now, looking back, it feels like we sacrificed our health for straight hair,” Fatima reflects, her voice heavy with grief and regret.
As lawsuits against haircare giants gain momentum, Nigerian women like Fatima and Halima are beginning to demand accountability, challenging long-held beauty norms and fighting for justice for the generations affected.
In Nigeria, however, awareness remains low. Interviews with AHR salon owners and consumers reveal a mix of skepticism and concern. Agatha, a salon owner in Abuja, admitted she was unaware of the cancer risks but expressed willingness to inform clients.Mrs. Funmi, stated, “I have been using relaxers for years and never had symptoms. Now that I know, I will consider keeping my natural hair.” Others, like Mrs. Mary, remain doubtful: “I don’t believe relaxers can cause cancer. I’ve used them for years without issues. Only God can protect us.”
Cultural and Social Pressures
The preference for straight hair is deeply rooted in societal expectations, Eurocentric beauty standards, and workplace norms. Many Nigerian women believe straight hair enhances professional opportunities and social acceptance. This perception has been reinforced by decades of media representation and marketing strategies by global beauty brands.
Seyi Falodun-Liburd, a gender justice advocate, argues that the conversation should focus on corporate and government responsibility rather than shaming individual choices. “Many Black women use relaxers for reasons beyond personal preference. It’s about accessibility, acceptance, and sometimes necessity,” she says.
Corporate Accountability and Regulation
Major beauty brands continue to sell relaxers in Africa despite growing health concerns. Some countries, including Brazil and Canada, have restricted formaldehyde in relaxers, while the European Union has proposed bans on certain endocrine disruptors. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is also considering a ban.
In Nigeria, the National Agency for Food and Drug Administration and Control (NAFDAC) has issued warnings against products containing formaldehyde, but enforcement remains weak. Health experts advocate for stricter regulations and clearer ingredient labeling to inform consumers.
The Rise of Natural Hair in Nigeria
Amid growing awareness, more Nigerian women are embracing their natural hair. Social media has played a significant role in promoting natural hair care, with influencers and brands catering to the shift. The natural hair industry is booming, with local businesses producing organic hair products free from harmful chemicals.
The natural hair movement represents not just a beauty trend but a cultural shift. More women are reclaiming their identity and prioritizing their health over societal expectations.
Dr. Ademola Ajibade, a medical practitioner at Fountain of Hope Hospital, Ado-Ekiti, highlights the health risks associated with chemical hair relaxers in an interview with Juliet Jacob from Africa Health Report.
Studies indicate that chemical hair relaxers may increase the risk of uterine cancer, hormone-related disorders, and reproductive issues due to harmful ingredients such as endocrine disruptors. Chemicals like sodium hydroxide and phthalates can disrupt hormonal balance, potentially leading to conditions such as infertility, fibroids, and cancer.
Although some women use relaxers for years without experiencing noticeable symptoms, this does not mean the risks are exaggerated. The long-term effects can take years to manifest, and certain issues, such as hormonal imbalances, may not present immediate symptoms. However, awareness of these dangers remains low in Nigeria, largely due to limited public health education and the marketing strategies of beauty brands. In contrast, legal actions in Western countries have helped raise more awareness.
Dr. Ajibade confirms that he has encountered cases where relaxers contributed to health problems. Patients with scalp burns, hair loss, and hormone-related conditions sometimes have a history of frequent relaxer use. He emphasizes the need for regulatory bodies like NAFDAC to enforce stricter regulations, ensure clearer product labeling, and launch public education campaigns to protect consumers.
While manufacturers should prioritize safety by investing in research, removing harmful chemicals, and being transparent about risks, many still focus on profits over consumer health. Additionally, societal expectations and workplace norms that favor straight hair contribute to the continued use of relaxers. Promoting education and implementing policies that support hair diversity could help address this issue.
The growing natural hair movement is already shifting perceptions, encouraging women to embrace healthier alternatives. Dr. Ajibade advises those concerned about the risks to consider reducing the frequency of relaxer use, switching to milder products, or exploring natural hairstyles. Safer alternatives such as heat styling, stretching methods, and chemical-free hair treatments can help manage hair without harmful exposure.
While avoiding relaxers entirely is the safest option, Dr. Ajibade acknowledges that those who choose to use them should limit exposure and prioritize scalp health.
Conclusion
The conversation around chemical hair relaxers is far from over. While research continues to uncover the full extent of health risks, the Nigerian market remains a stronghold for relaxer sales. Awareness, regulation, and corporate responsibility must go hand in hand to protect consumers.
For Nigerian women, the decision to use relaxers is more than just a beauty choice—it is a matter of health, culture, and empowerment. As more women become informed, the tide may eventually turn towards safer, healthier haircare alternatives.
Would you continue using chemical relaxers after knowing the risks? Share your thoughts with Africa Health Report @ 08064065261, (SMS ONLY).
