Gen Z’s growing love of cosmetic procedures – The Mail & Guardian

Generation Z — those born more or less between 1996 and 2010 — are increasingly turning to plastic surgery and non-surgical procedures, such as Botox and fillers, in an effort to enhance their young features, something that has become known as the “Zoom face” phenomenon. 

Johannesburg-based plastic surgeon Dr Chrysis Sofianos told the Mail & Guardian that the obsession with appearance, which started during the Covid-19 lockdown as people were communicating more via video conferencing platforms, has encouraged cosmetic procedures among the younger generation. 

“It goes through phases. With the lockdown, I had many patients come in for facelifts and blepharoplasty (eyelid) surgery because they were staring at themselves on the screen.  Unfortunately, Zoom does bring out imperfections.”

According to a study by the American Academy of Facial Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, the top reasons for wanting plastic surgery were the desire to “feel refreshed/look younger after ageing from pandemic stress” and noticing “things they want to improve during video calls”.

Said Sofianos: “That’s where the natural plastic surgery comes in, where patients, especially the Gen Z patients, aren’t wanting to come in and look 20 years younger, they want more of a natural enhancement. 

“That’s what we are aiming for with plastic surgery these days. We are not aiming to change patients massively to the extent where they look abnormal or different,” he said.  

Instead, the focus was on reducing or enhancing certain characteristics so patients would “feel better about themselves”. 

A survey by the American Society of Plastic Surgeons found that Gen Z is increasingly opting for plastic surgery enhancements and fillers and, importantly, is open about doing so. 

The increase in procedures has initiated a change in the perception of cosmetic plastic surgery,  once viewed as a taboo topic, and considered the realm of celebrities or the wealthy.  

In the past, many celebrities kept their procedures secret but, these days, there is more acceptance of the “my body, my choice” mantra, whether that includes surgery or not.  

Recently, actress and model Angela White, known as Blac Chyna, had several cosmetic procedures reversed and spoke openly about doing so, saying it was because she felt the enhancements no longer reflected who she was. 

Thirty-four-year-old Joe Jonas of the Jonas Brothers fame, told Allure magazine in April that he had gone the route of injectables “when I noticed I was starting to see more frown lines”, adding that the results had given him the “confidence boost that I was looking for”.

The star of Netflix’s Young, Famous & African, Khanyi Mbau, has openly admitted to spending a fortune on undergoing cosmetic procedures. Mbau says she believes it is a celebrity’s duty to “sell vanity”, adding that it is an “escape for people” and she needs to “constantly look like their dreams”. 

Mbau even invited the media to film her undergoing liposuction, after which she told Drum magazine: “You still need to eat right and go to the gym, there are no shortcuts.”

South African socialite Faith Nketsi chose a non-surgical procedure in 2018 to enhance her nose. It was documented and shared on her Instagram profile. 

Many of those in the Gen Z age group who the M&G spoke to said that if they could afford it, enhancements would definitely be on the cards. 

One woman, who started Botox injections the week after her 30th birthday last year, said she did it as “an extra preventative measure to slow the effects of ageing”. 

It was a relatively easy decision to get the injections, she said, with cost being the biggest factor. 

“But I consider it a worthwhile investment. Beyond the anti-ageing benefits, Botox also stops my stress headaches.”  

Asked if anyone had tried to dissuade her from having the injections at such a young age, the woman said no, but commented that her partner had told her that “ageing is a good thing”. 

“I agree [with my partner] but I think women have a lot more pressure on them to stay looking young — and I dedicated most of my twenties towards this endeavour, mostly through skincare. I’m not going to let extra work stress in my thirties undo all that!” 

Plastic surgery can be divided into two categories — reconstructive and cosmetic. Typically, the first step is a consultation with a registered plastic surgeon, who takes the patient through the process and explains the risks and side effects. Once the patient has consented, the procedure can be performed. 

Many patients, however, find that maintenance adds a hefty price to the initial outlay for surgery. 

“It really depends on what the procedure is, because less invasive [procedures], like facial enhancement such as [Botox injections], would last three to four months, while volumising fillers would last nine to 12 months. 

“So, you are easily looking at around R15 000-plus for a procedure that lasts for 12 months — but it depends on the type of surgery,” said Dr Deon Weyers of the Association of Plastic, Reconstructive and Aesthetic Surgeons of Southern Africa (Aprassa). 

The high cost of surgical procedures can encourage patients to look for alternatives and they often resort to aestheticians at a much lower price. But aestheticians stress that there is a difference between their treatments and those plastic surgeons offer. 

“Aestheticians mostly do non-invasive treatments, like resolving skin problems, enhancing skin conditions and every other treatment that does not require surgery, which you have to visit a plastic surgeon for,” said medical aesthetician specialist Dr Nandi Mbawu. 

When asked if they would go into debt to get plastic or non-surgical procedures to transform themselves, one student said it depended on the cost of the procedure and whether it would be affordable to save up over a period of time.

Another 21-year-old student said she felt that “going into debt to look a certain way which is basically influenced by social media, is crazy”. 

“What if I don’t like my fillers or implants five years from now? Maybe when I am financially stable, I will have the means to put in or take out these enhancements but as a student, no way!”

She said it would be a different matter if the surgery was a medical necessity, such as a breast reduction to alleviate chronic pain. 

An employed Gen Z woman said she would happily use her credit card for fillers because she knows that the outlay could be paid back over time. 

Aprassa has warned that there is a misconception that any doctor advertising plastic surgery is appropriately qualified to practise and perform it. According to the association, there can be dire consequences if the doctor is not correctly qualified. 

“If you are undergoing a surgical procedure, you should go to a qualified surgeon with a specialist degree, acknowledged as a specialist by the Health Professions Council of South Africa and Aprassa,” said Weyers

Don’t decide based solely on “what you see on social media or the trends — go to these governing bodies to check their credentials and get multiple options before deciding”. 

Even though plastic surgeons reported that Gen Z patients are concerned about the aftereffects of procedures, this does not dampen their desire for enhancements.  

“Facelifts have exploded at the moment but breast and body contouring are quite popular as well,” said Sofianos.  

Mommy makeovers 

“Mommy makeovers, an enhancement procedure post-pregnancy, is quite popular, as is the Brazilian butt lift. For the younger generation, any type of body contouring that enhances their features is quite popular,” said Weyers. 

Speaking to the M&G about her procedure, a 25-year-old student said she went for fillers because the “dark circles” under her eyes did not fade, despite the use of various treatments. 

Another 24-year-old student said she felt that her “baby face fat” was affecting her self-esteem. 

Both women said financing the procedures was difficult and entailed saving for months. 

According to psychologists, social media has profoundly influenced teenagers’ and young people’s perceptions of physical perfection.  

“This constant exposure to others’ seemingly perfect lives and bodies can lead to feelings of inadequacy and a heightened desire to conform to unrealistic beauty standards,” said clinical psychologist Dr Pam Tudin. 

“This paradox of presenting perfection while admitting imperfection can create a confusing dynamic that further distorts teens’ perception of self-worth and body image.”

The Gen Z individuals that the M&G spoke to agreed, with many saying the “age of the influencer” had led them to view their bodies differently. Still, they acknowledged, individuals have control over what online content they consume.  

Some said they would undergo procedures such as fillers or tummy tucks if they could afford to, as these would give the “instant results” they craved. 

Said one: “It is kind of a cycle that repeats itself whereby societal beauty standards encourage plastic surgery but then the plastic surgery that gets done encourages the beauty standards of society — so it is double standards with what we find attractive as well.”